Silk is often talked about as a single fabric, but "silk" really describes the fibre. The weave decides almost everything else: how glossy the fabric looks, how it drapes, how strong it is and what it is best used for. A silk satin and a silk twill can come from the same fibre and still behave completely differently. This guide explains how silk is made, how the main silk weaves compare, and how to choose the right silk fabric for what you are making.
How Silk Is Made
Silk comes from the cocoon of the silkworm. The caterpillar spins its cocoon from one long, continuous filament, held together by a natural gum called sericin. To make thread, the cocoons are softened and the filaments from several cocoons are unwound together and combined, because a single filament is far too fine to use on its own. That reeling takes skill and care, which is part of why silk has always been a premium fabric.
Before silk is woven or finished, most of the sericin is washed away. This step, called degumming, is what gives silk fabric its softness and its characteristic lustre.
Silk Is the Fibre, Satin and Twill Are Weaves
This is the point that confuses most buyers. Satin and twill are not types of silk. They are ways of weaving threads together, and they can be woven from silk, polyester, cotton or other fibres. A lot of satin on the market is polyester, so if you want real silk satin, check the fibre content as well as the name.
Silk Satin
In a satin weave, each thread passes over four or more threads before it is tied down, leaving long "floats" on the surface. Those floats give silk satin its smooth, glossy face and duller back, and its fluid drape. The trade off is that the long floats snag more easily than tighter weaves.
Silk satin, also known as charmeuse, is a favourite for evening wear, lingerie, sleepwear and bedding. It is also the base of many of our printed scarves, including the Big 5 silk scarf. Our Fabric Shop stocks 16mm silk satin, plus a 16mm silk satin spandex that adds stretch.
Silk Twill
Twill is woven so that the threads pass over and under each other in a stepped pattern, creating fine diagonal ribs across the surface. It is woven more tightly than satin, which makes it stronger and more durable, with a softer, quieter sheen.
Silk twill has body, so it holds its shape once it is tied or folded, which is why it is the classic choice for square scarves, ties and pocket squares. You can see it in our Hepburn Classic silk scarf. Our Fabric Shop stocks 16mm silk twill.
Silk Chiffon and Silk Georgette
Chiffon and georgette are both sheer, lightweight silks, and both come in 8mm in our Fabric Shop. The difference is in the yarn. Chiffon is woven from less tightly twisted yarns, so it is smoother, slightly shiny and very sheer. It drapes beautifully and is often used in layers to soften its sheerness.
Georgette uses more tightly twisted yarns, which give it a slightly pebbly, crinkled surface. It is a little less sheer and a little more robust than chiffon, and it doesn't show pin marks as easily, which makes it easier to work with while keeping the same soft, flowing movement.
Crepe de Chine, Habotai and Organza
Crepe de chine is woven with tightly twisted crepe yarns, which give it a soft, matte finish and a little springiness. It is more elastic than plain weave silks, so it is comfortable to wear, which makes it a popular choice for blouses and dresses. Ours is 16mm.
Habotai is a smooth, light plain weave silk, often used for linings and lightweight garments, and organza is a sheer silk with a crisp hand that holds its shape. Both come in 10mm in our Fabric Shop.
Textured and Patterned Silks
Silk dupion has a slubbed, textured surface and a crisp, structured feel. Silk jacquard has its pattern woven into the fabric, so different weave structures create contrasts in texture and sheen. Both are available on request, subject to availability. Heavier and textured silks like dupion should be dry cleaned, so keep that in mind when you plan a garment.
Working With a Silk Supplier in Cape Town
Whichever silk suppliers you compare, ask to see and handle the fabric before you buy. The easiest way to choose between silk satin, silk twill and the other weaves is to feel them. We offer free, in person consultations at our Green Point showroom, where you can see how each silk fabric drapes and catches the light. Mill dyed silk in our Fabric Shop is ordered per metre from a 1 metre minimum, and undyed silk satin and habotai are available from stock, subject to stock levels, with no minimum. We can also custom print or dye silk, with a strike off or lab dip for you to approve before production, and we supply silk blends with linen, cotton, bamboo, modal, viscose, wool and Tencel.
Explore the full range on our Silk Fabric page, or read our guide to silk fabric for fashion designers for weights, minimums and ordering.
